Joe,
I think belly putters should be illegal because it anchors the end of the club, let’s go back to the original rules of the game. What do you think?
Ernie
Hi Ernie,
If we go back to the original rules, then you also must play a plugged ball as it lies, even on the green. You also were not allowed to clean mud off your ball, even on the green. Try to putt with a wad of mud stuck to your ball and maybe you will understand that sometimes the rules really do need to be changed, otherwise it becomes more of a game of bad luck instead of skill. Belly putters have saved the careers of several pros, and they also have given new hope to recreational golfers who otherwise were going to quit the game because of the Putting Yips. However, if you really do not like belly putters, you can still get rid of those Yips by pinning your front elbow to your torso firmly (the anchor you mentioned) and using the “claw” grip like Mark Calcavecchia, which reduces unwanted right hand motion, and using your shoulders to make the stroke instead of your hands.
Joe
Thursday, October 28, 2004
Tuesday, October 26, 2004
Joe,
I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW
1. WHY I TEND TO HIT THE BALL "THIN" OFF MY IRONS.
2. WHAT DRILLS CAN I DO TO HELP THAT.
3. I HAVE A REAL HARD TIME GETTING THE CLUB BACK TO PARELLEL AND INOTONLY WATCH THE PROS BUT SOME GUYS AT DRIVING RANGES DOING ITEFFORTLESSLY. WHAT CAN I DO TO HELP MYSELF WITH THAT?THANKS,Rob Wing
Hello Rob,
I think your number 3 might have something to do with your number 1. You might be so concerned with getting the club back to parallel, that you ball striking may be suffering because of that. Although it looks like the classical thing to do, it is not absolutely necessary. Some of us are not built the same as others so we cannot swing the same way. Look at how short the backswings are for Dana Quigley, Allen Doyle, Jim Thorpe, and several others, they do not even come close to parallel, and yet they are very successful. As for your number 2, I would recommend the drills shown on the Body Golf videos, such as the double clubber and the toe drag drills. You may also find that the Body Golf drills and exercises might result in your getting closer to parallel without having to concentrate on that.
Joe
I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW
1. WHY I TEND TO HIT THE BALL "THIN" OFF MY IRONS.
2. WHAT DRILLS CAN I DO TO HELP THAT.
3. I HAVE A REAL HARD TIME GETTING THE CLUB BACK TO PARELLEL AND INOTONLY WATCH THE PROS BUT SOME GUYS AT DRIVING RANGES DOING ITEFFORTLESSLY. WHAT CAN I DO TO HELP MYSELF WITH THAT?THANKS,Rob Wing
Hello Rob,
I think your number 3 might have something to do with your number 1. You might be so concerned with getting the club back to parallel, that you ball striking may be suffering because of that. Although it looks like the classical thing to do, it is not absolutely necessary. Some of us are not built the same as others so we cannot swing the same way. Look at how short the backswings are for Dana Quigley, Allen Doyle, Jim Thorpe, and several others, they do not even come close to parallel, and yet they are very successful. As for your number 2, I would recommend the drills shown on the Body Golf videos, such as the double clubber and the toe drag drills. You may also find that the Body Golf drills and exercises might result in your getting closer to parallel without having to concentrate on that.
Joe
Monday, October 25, 2004
Joe,
Thank you for accommodating me in your golf tips. I've been playing for almost six months now but I still could not break 100 on my games. Could you also help me cure my left arm to be strait during backswing up to impact on the ball and slice.
Respectfully yours
Alex Ricohermoso
Hello Alex,Keeping the left arm straight (assuming you are right handed) accomplishes two good things. It assures the widest possible arc, and the wider the arc, the higher the clubhead speed. It assures a more consistent arc, for example, if you allow the left elbow to bend, you have to be consistent in how much it bends or else the arc will be inconsistent, and therefore your ball striking will be inconsistent. Of course you should not make too much of an effort to keep it perfectly straight or else you might restrict your natural swing, just keep it comfortably straight. If you are slicing, there are probably other reasons at play, possibly your grip or your weight shift, or your swing plane.
Joe
Thank you for accommodating me in your golf tips. I've been playing for almost six months now but I still could not break 100 on my games. Could you also help me cure my left arm to be strait during backswing up to impact on the ball and slice.
Respectfully yours
Alex Ricohermoso
Hello Alex,Keeping the left arm straight (assuming you are right handed) accomplishes two good things. It assures the widest possible arc, and the wider the arc, the higher the clubhead speed. It assures a more consistent arc, for example, if you allow the left elbow to bend, you have to be consistent in how much it bends or else the arc will be inconsistent, and therefore your ball striking will be inconsistent. Of course you should not make too much of an effort to keep it perfectly straight or else you might restrict your natural swing, just keep it comfortably straight. If you are slicing, there are probably other reasons at play, possibly your grip or your weight shift, or your swing plane.
Joe
Sunday, October 24, 2004
Joe,
What about the head during a Golf swing? There are some people that say that the head has to be absolutely still and the eyes have to be on the ball during the swing until the follow through. Contrary to this, there is a school of thought that the head being still is a myth. This states that if the head is still, it robs the power that the body can generate. Surely, Golf instructions are more difficult than the game itself. Would appreciate your insight and advice in this matter. Regards,Vinodh.
Hello Vinodh,
Absolutely still is incorrect. Steady is correct, meaning that the head can rotate a little bit. It is true that you can get more power by allowing the head to move sideways during the backswing, but that is only for people who have no problems with good ball contact. If you find yourself hitting shots fat or thin or wild, then I would recommend keeping the head more steady and avoid the sideways movement. As we said to Sid from Australia last week, Jack Nicklaus’ instructor used to grab the back of his hair to prevent too much head movement, and I think you will agree it worked for Jack, he had a “fairly nice” career, right?
Joe
What about the head during a Golf swing? There are some people that say that the head has to be absolutely still and the eyes have to be on the ball during the swing until the follow through. Contrary to this, there is a school of thought that the head being still is a myth. This states that if the head is still, it robs the power that the body can generate. Surely, Golf instructions are more difficult than the game itself. Would appreciate your insight and advice in this matter. Regards,Vinodh.
Hello Vinodh,
Absolutely still is incorrect. Steady is correct, meaning that the head can rotate a little bit. It is true that you can get more power by allowing the head to move sideways during the backswing, but that is only for people who have no problems with good ball contact. If you find yourself hitting shots fat or thin or wild, then I would recommend keeping the head more steady and avoid the sideways movement. As we said to Sid from Australia last week, Jack Nicklaus’ instructor used to grab the back of his hair to prevent too much head movement, and I think you will agree it worked for Jack, he had a “fairly nice” career, right?
Joe
Friday, October 22, 2004
Joe,
Have you ever played the “A-ball” (from almostgolfball.com) on a par-3 golf course?
Abbie
Hello Abbie,
Yes, just recently I used it on a short par 3 course, Walnut Greens in Schaumburg, IL. For those of you who never heard of it, the A-ball looks exactly like a real ball but it is much lighter, so it travels less than half the distance of a real ball, but it hooks and slices just like a real ball. This essentially turns the par 3 course into a regulation sized course, so you can use all your clubs. Since there is much less walking, you can finish a 9 hole round in one hour. You are not likely to lose it since it does not travel so far, and it floats if you happen to hit into water. The only disadvantage would be a windy day because the lighter ball is more affected by wind. The almostgolfball.com website is worth a visit because it describes the many other new ideas being used with this “A-ball”, like Happy Gilmore style long drive contests and makeshift courses in your local parks. You can order these online or get them from some of the larger golf stores.
Joe
Have you ever played the “A-ball” (from almostgolfball.com) on a par-3 golf course?
Abbie
Hello Abbie,
Yes, just recently I used it on a short par 3 course, Walnut Greens in Schaumburg, IL. For those of you who never heard of it, the A-ball looks exactly like a real ball but it is much lighter, so it travels less than half the distance of a real ball, but it hooks and slices just like a real ball. This essentially turns the par 3 course into a regulation sized course, so you can use all your clubs. Since there is much less walking, you can finish a 9 hole round in one hour. You are not likely to lose it since it does not travel so far, and it floats if you happen to hit into water. The only disadvantage would be a windy day because the lighter ball is more affected by wind. The almostgolfball.com website is worth a visit because it describes the many other new ideas being used with this “A-ball”, like Happy Gilmore style long drive contests and makeshift courses in your local parks. You can order these online or get them from some of the larger golf stores.
Joe
Thursday, October 21, 2004
Joe,
I took up golf almost 2 years ago. A regular weekend golfer, I usually card a score of low 90 for 18 holes. A good round is close to the 90s and a bad one touching the 100s. I use a Wilson Deep Red 420cc driver and get about 225 meters off the tee. My shots are usually straight and hence am able to keep the ball in play most of the times. My problem is my iron shots. I usually hit the 9 iron 100 meter and a 7 iron 120 meters. However, I usually hit them fat. There is a BIG divot starting at about 2 inches behind the ball. I loose power in the shot and hence never make the required distance. Looking at the divots, they are straight - hence assuming I am not coming either inside out or out to in in my downswing. I am wondering, what causes this and how can this be fixed. I have tried different tricks to see how it can be fixed but to no avail. I have never taken any professional golf lessons and have taught myself basically through reading and your valuable emails. One of the Pro's once told me that I have a fantastic golf swing and very good rhythm. He also said that I need to fix just a few things in my game to hit in the 70s - has someone heard of golf nirvana! The problem is he didn’t tell me what to fix? - smart man! Wondering what you can advise on this problem of mine.Regards,SIDMelbourne, Australia
Hello Sid,
A fantastic golf swing can be compared to doing a hula hoop. You may be able to do a beautiful hula dance, but if the hoop falls to the ground, the good rhythm does not matter. Fat iron shots can be caused by a number of things, one possibility is a sideways sway on the backswing. Jack Nicklaus’ instructor used to grab the back of his hair to make sure it remained steady during the swing. Some instructors say it is OK to move your head sideways because it can add power to your swing, but I say what good is extra power if you are hitting fat shots? Keeping the head steady also helps to prevent overswinging, another possible cause for fat shots. Make this your primary swing thought and let us know how it turns out.
Joe
I took up golf almost 2 years ago. A regular weekend golfer, I usually card a score of low 90 for 18 holes. A good round is close to the 90s and a bad one touching the 100s. I use a Wilson Deep Red 420cc driver and get about 225 meters off the tee. My shots are usually straight and hence am able to keep the ball in play most of the times. My problem is my iron shots. I usually hit the 9 iron 100 meter and a 7 iron 120 meters. However, I usually hit them fat. There is a BIG divot starting at about 2 inches behind the ball. I loose power in the shot and hence never make the required distance. Looking at the divots, they are straight - hence assuming I am not coming either inside out or out to in in my downswing. I am wondering, what causes this and how can this be fixed. I have tried different tricks to see how it can be fixed but to no avail. I have never taken any professional golf lessons and have taught myself basically through reading and your valuable emails. One of the Pro's once told me that I have a fantastic golf swing and very good rhythm. He also said that I need to fix just a few things in my game to hit in the 70s - has someone heard of golf nirvana! The problem is he didn’t tell me what to fix? - smart man! Wondering what you can advise on this problem of mine.Regards,SIDMelbourne, Australia
Hello Sid,
A fantastic golf swing can be compared to doing a hula hoop. You may be able to do a beautiful hula dance, but if the hoop falls to the ground, the good rhythm does not matter. Fat iron shots can be caused by a number of things, one possibility is a sideways sway on the backswing. Jack Nicklaus’ instructor used to grab the back of his hair to make sure it remained steady during the swing. Some instructors say it is OK to move your head sideways because it can add power to your swing, but I say what good is extra power if you are hitting fat shots? Keeping the head steady also helps to prevent overswinging, another possible cause for fat shots. Make this your primary swing thought and let us know how it turns out.
Joe
Monday, October 18, 2004
Joe,
Setting Goals is supposed to help. Other than shooting a better score or lowering my handicap, can you be more specific?
Gene
Hi Gene,
Specific goals can make you feel better even when your scores do not show immediate improvement. For example, we all know that sometimes we fix one part of our game, only to see another part of our game go sour, so your scores may not show improvement, but hey, if you did fix one part of your game, what if your fix is a lasting fix, and then you fix another part of your game, and then another? Here are some examples on how to set goals: First, determine what is normal for you, then keep track like this: In a normal round of golf, what if you 3-putt one less time than normal? What if you got up-and-down one more time than normal? What if you hit one more green in regulation than normal? What if you hit one more good drive than normal? What if you made one less mental/strategic mistake than normal? What if you had one less flub than normal? What if you had one less penalty shot than normal? Each one of these improvements seems minor, but if you can put them all together, they can add up to several strokes improvement per round! These are only a few examples of goals, there are many other ways to set them. Set small goals like these for yourself and keep track of them, and celebrate the ones you achieve, especially on days when your score is not so great, at least you have something to feel good about. By working on this process, one day you will put it all together and have your best score ever.
Joe
Setting Goals is supposed to help. Other than shooting a better score or lowering my handicap, can you be more specific?
Gene
Hi Gene,
Specific goals can make you feel better even when your scores do not show immediate improvement. For example, we all know that sometimes we fix one part of our game, only to see another part of our game go sour, so your scores may not show improvement, but hey, if you did fix one part of your game, what if your fix is a lasting fix, and then you fix another part of your game, and then another? Here are some examples on how to set goals: First, determine what is normal for you, then keep track like this: In a normal round of golf, what if you 3-putt one less time than normal? What if you got up-and-down one more time than normal? What if you hit one more green in regulation than normal? What if you hit one more good drive than normal? What if you made one less mental/strategic mistake than normal? What if you had one less flub than normal? What if you had one less penalty shot than normal? Each one of these improvements seems minor, but if you can put them all together, they can add up to several strokes improvement per round! These are only a few examples of goals, there are many other ways to set them. Set small goals like these for yourself and keep track of them, and celebrate the ones you achieve, especially on days when your score is not so great, at least you have something to feel good about. By working on this process, one day you will put it all together and have your best score ever.
Joe
Sunday, October 17, 2004
Saturday, October 16, 2004
Joe,
What is swingweight and how much does it matter?
Bill
Hi Bill,
Swingweight is the ratio of the weight of the clubhead to the overall weight of the whole club. This idea was intended to give a consistent feel from club to club in a matched set. Some people do not care about feel because when they start hitting good shots with a funny-feeling mismatched club, that starts feeling good mighty quick. Swingweights are measured in a goofy letter-number scheme, the higher the letter and number, the heavier the swingweight. Most swingweights are in the C and D areas, longer hitters prefer D. All D’s are heavier than all C’s, so D1 is heavier than C9. How much does this matter? Some people (techno-geeks) swear this is important to them, others (like me) feel it cannot be so important because in a set of irons, as the iron numbers get higher, the shafts get shorter and the clubheads get larger, therefore the feel will not be exactly the same anyway. So you have to do your own experiments and come to your own conclusions.
Joe
What is swingweight and how much does it matter?
Bill
Hi Bill,
Swingweight is the ratio of the weight of the clubhead to the overall weight of the whole club. This idea was intended to give a consistent feel from club to club in a matched set. Some people do not care about feel because when they start hitting good shots with a funny-feeling mismatched club, that starts feeling good mighty quick. Swingweights are measured in a goofy letter-number scheme, the higher the letter and number, the heavier the swingweight. Most swingweights are in the C and D areas, longer hitters prefer D. All D’s are heavier than all C’s, so D1 is heavier than C9. How much does this matter? Some people (techno-geeks) swear this is important to them, others (like me) feel it cannot be so important because in a set of irons, as the iron numbers get higher, the shafts get shorter and the clubheads get larger, therefore the feel will not be exactly the same anyway. So you have to do your own experiments and come to your own conclusions.
Joe
Friday, October 15, 2004
Joe,
I was wondering if you could provide insight into an issue that I am encountering while inquiring about golf clubs (since my clubs are 20+ years old and not in the greatest shape). What is preferable -- regular flex or stiff flex? I have read that it depends on your clubhead speed -- and with my size (I'm 5'11" and approx. 210 lbs) and the techniques taught by Mark in the Body Golf series -- I probably can generate above average club speed. However, I'm still not sure whether I should get regular flex or stiff flex for my clubs. I would appreciate any insight you can provide on this issue so I am more knowledgeable when shopping for new clubs. Thanks,Bill Kemple, Jr.
Hello Bill,
The proper shaft flex for you depends on your clubhead speed. The shaft acts as a spring to increase clubhead speed at impact. If your swing speed is slow, then a stiff shaft may rob you of distance because there is too little spring action, but a more flexible shaft will bend more at the top of the swing and on the downswing it will begin to catch up to your hands. As your hands reach the impact position, the shaft “unbends” and springs forward to catch up to your hands, and as a result the clubhead speed becomes greater. A more flexible shaft will not work for those with higher swing speeds because it bends so much that it cannot “unbend” fast enough to catch up to the hands. For people with higher swing speeds, a stiffer shaft will work better because it unbends faster. Be careful, there are a lot of variations in brands, for example a stiff shaft from one brand might flex just as much as a regular shaft from another brand. The best thing to do is to attend demo days at a driving range where you can hit several different shaft types and compare results. Some driving ranges will even let you hit their demo clubs if you pay for a bucket of range balls. If you don’t mind paying a fee, you can get more scientifically fitted by a professional club fitter. When in doubt, decide what is more important to you, distance or accuracy because you might get a little more distance from a more flexible shaft with less accuracy, while a stiffer shaft is less likely to twist and cause the clubface to turn off square, so the accuracy might be better at the expense of a little distance.
Joe
I was wondering if you could provide insight into an issue that I am encountering while inquiring about golf clubs (since my clubs are 20+ years old and not in the greatest shape). What is preferable -- regular flex or stiff flex? I have read that it depends on your clubhead speed -- and with my size (I'm 5'11" and approx. 210 lbs) and the techniques taught by Mark in the Body Golf series -- I probably can generate above average club speed. However, I'm still not sure whether I should get regular flex or stiff flex for my clubs. I would appreciate any insight you can provide on this issue so I am more knowledgeable when shopping for new clubs. Thanks,Bill Kemple, Jr.
Hello Bill,
The proper shaft flex for you depends on your clubhead speed. The shaft acts as a spring to increase clubhead speed at impact. If your swing speed is slow, then a stiff shaft may rob you of distance because there is too little spring action, but a more flexible shaft will bend more at the top of the swing and on the downswing it will begin to catch up to your hands. As your hands reach the impact position, the shaft “unbends” and springs forward to catch up to your hands, and as a result the clubhead speed becomes greater. A more flexible shaft will not work for those with higher swing speeds because it bends so much that it cannot “unbend” fast enough to catch up to the hands. For people with higher swing speeds, a stiffer shaft will work better because it unbends faster. Be careful, there are a lot of variations in brands, for example a stiff shaft from one brand might flex just as much as a regular shaft from another brand. The best thing to do is to attend demo days at a driving range where you can hit several different shaft types and compare results. Some driving ranges will even let you hit their demo clubs if you pay for a bucket of range balls. If you don’t mind paying a fee, you can get more scientifically fitted by a professional club fitter. When in doubt, decide what is more important to you, distance or accuracy because you might get a little more distance from a more flexible shaft with less accuracy, while a stiffer shaft is less likely to twist and cause the clubface to turn off square, so the accuracy might be better at the expense of a little distance.
Joe
Monday, October 11, 2004
Joe,
I must admit to really enjoying the compilation of dvd's finally with the book. My frustration is that consistency for me is in my faults, not where it should be. The one problem I can't seem to get rid of with my irons is all too often I top the ball, or hit it with the heel. I rarely gain height in my shots. Unfortunately I tend to tense up when this occurs which only further frustrates me. The local golf pro keeps saying that I don't use my legs, if I did all would be well. I toe drag quite well and finish through fine so I just try to concentrate on relaxing. I'll get there one day!
Geoff
Hello Geoff,
Topping the ball can be caused by a number of things, so here are some possibilities. First, if you are trying to lift the ball with your swing, you must change your thoughts into hitting down more sharply at the ball. Strike the ball and then the ground, taking a divot. The ball will then spin up the clubface and go airborne. I am not the first to say in order to make the ball go up, you must hit down. You can see this with a ping pong ball if you give it a downward stroke with the paddle it will rise, and if you hit it with an upward stroke it will dive downward. If you are also hitting the ball on the heel, then a possible cause is having your weight too much on your toes. Try putting a little more of your weight on your heels and you may feel better balance during your stroke.
Joe
I must admit to really enjoying the compilation of dvd's finally with the book. My frustration is that consistency for me is in my faults, not where it should be. The one problem I can't seem to get rid of with my irons is all too often I top the ball, or hit it with the heel. I rarely gain height in my shots. Unfortunately I tend to tense up when this occurs which only further frustrates me. The local golf pro keeps saying that I don't use my legs, if I did all would be well. I toe drag quite well and finish through fine so I just try to concentrate on relaxing. I'll get there one day!
Geoff
Hello Geoff,
Topping the ball can be caused by a number of things, so here are some possibilities. First, if you are trying to lift the ball with your swing, you must change your thoughts into hitting down more sharply at the ball. Strike the ball and then the ground, taking a divot. The ball will then spin up the clubface and go airborne. I am not the first to say in order to make the ball go up, you must hit down. You can see this with a ping pong ball if you give it a downward stroke with the paddle it will rise, and if you hit it with an upward stroke it will dive downward. If you are also hitting the ball on the heel, then a possible cause is having your weight too much on your toes. Try putting a little more of your weight on your heels and you may feel better balance during your stroke.
Joe
Saturday, October 02, 2004
Saturday, September 25, 2004
Joe,
I have been golfing for 5 years and have a very good drive, long irons and putting. My whole game goes to the dogs when I have about a 30 yd. pitch or shorter chip, which is sometimes my second shot on a short hole. I don't like to take a divot, but I think I'm not hitting the bottom of the ball by not doing so. Is there a tip out there to help me? I enjoy the newsletter and all the advice.
Thanks, Bette
Hi Bette,
Pitches and chips are the scoring shots that separate the low handicappers from the high handicappers. You can go to any driving range and watch two people banging out impressive shots, but their handicaps may be 5 shots apart and you would not be able to tell which person was better, which means more time should be spent on the short game instead of the long game. In your case, if you do not like taking a divot, that means your swing is a “sweeping” swing that has little margin for error. I would recommend improving your margin of error by striking the ball at the equator with a downward stroke. That way, the ball will spin up the clubface, unlike the sweeping swing which strikes the equator resulting in a low line drive or topped shot. Also on the downswing do not break your wrists, let the hands lead the clubhead all the way into the follow thru.
Joe
I have been golfing for 5 years and have a very good drive, long irons and putting. My whole game goes to the dogs when I have about a 30 yd. pitch or shorter chip, which is sometimes my second shot on a short hole. I don't like to take a divot, but I think I'm not hitting the bottom of the ball by not doing so. Is there a tip out there to help me? I enjoy the newsletter and all the advice.
Thanks, Bette
Hi Bette,
Pitches and chips are the scoring shots that separate the low handicappers from the high handicappers. You can go to any driving range and watch two people banging out impressive shots, but their handicaps may be 5 shots apart and you would not be able to tell which person was better, which means more time should be spent on the short game instead of the long game. In your case, if you do not like taking a divot, that means your swing is a “sweeping” swing that has little margin for error. I would recommend improving your margin of error by striking the ball at the equator with a downward stroke. That way, the ball will spin up the clubface, unlike the sweeping swing which strikes the equator resulting in a low line drive or topped shot. Also on the downswing do not break your wrists, let the hands lead the clubhead all the way into the follow thru.
Joe
Thursday, September 23, 2004
Question for the Evil Twin:
Jody, what do you think about the Taylor Made R7 driver with the adjustable weight screws?
Answer: It’s a screwy idea, but it might be fun to screw around with, as long as you don’t screw up your swing trying to screw the right weights into the right screw holes. It gives a whole new meaning when you hit a bad shot. Instead of saying screw it, you can actually do it.
(note from Joe – Jody, I think you have a screw loose, and it’s not in your driver)
Jody, what do you think about the Taylor Made R7 driver with the adjustable weight screws?
Answer: It’s a screwy idea, but it might be fun to screw around with, as long as you don’t screw up your swing trying to screw the right weights into the right screw holes. It gives a whole new meaning when you hit a bad shot. Instead of saying screw it, you can actually do it.
(note from Joe – Jody, I think you have a screw loose, and it’s not in your driver)
Wednesday, September 22, 2004
Joe,
I can’t afford to buy new balls all the time, so how long do older balls keep their distance?
Matt
Hi Matt,
One way to tell is to hold a new ball in one hand and another ball in the other hand. On a smooth sidewalk, hold them as high as you can and drop them at the same time and compare how high they rebound.
Joe
I can’t afford to buy new balls all the time, so how long do older balls keep their distance?
Matt
Hi Matt,
One way to tell is to hold a new ball in one hand and another ball in the other hand. On a smooth sidewalk, hold them as high as you can and drop them at the same time and compare how high they rebound.
Joe
Tuesday, September 21, 2004
Joe,
If Ben Hogan was such a great ball striker, why did he say that all straight shots are accidents?
Ray
Hello Ray,
I have no business speaking for Ben, but here is what I think he meant. If you try to hit a straight shot every time, you will only sometimes succeed. If you can “shape” your shots by deliberately hitting a fade or a draw, then you have taken away the dangers that are on one side of the hole or the other side, and even if the ball happens to go straight you are still safe as long as you are not aiming directly at the dangerous area. This does not mean you need two different swings, you can have the same swing with two different grips, one “stronger” to promote a draw, and one “weaker” to promote a fade. If you think about it, when you try to hit the ball straight you do not really know if it might go left or right, so you can get into trouble more easily because your margin of error is smaller. When you can shape your shots, fairways and greens become essentially twice as wide because you know you are not as likely to miss on the wrong side, so you do not have to aim down the middle, and therefore your margin of error becomes larger to the other side.
Joe
If Ben Hogan was such a great ball striker, why did he say that all straight shots are accidents?
Ray
Hello Ray,
I have no business speaking for Ben, but here is what I think he meant. If you try to hit a straight shot every time, you will only sometimes succeed. If you can “shape” your shots by deliberately hitting a fade or a draw, then you have taken away the dangers that are on one side of the hole or the other side, and even if the ball happens to go straight you are still safe as long as you are not aiming directly at the dangerous area. This does not mean you need two different swings, you can have the same swing with two different grips, one “stronger” to promote a draw, and one “weaker” to promote a fade. If you think about it, when you try to hit the ball straight you do not really know if it might go left or right, so you can get into trouble more easily because your margin of error is smaller. When you can shape your shots, fairways and greens become essentially twice as wide because you know you are not as likely to miss on the wrong side, so you do not have to aim down the middle, and therefore your margin of error becomes larger to the other side.
Joe
Monday, September 20, 2004
Joe,
Just a quick question, I’m a 2 handicapper and I hit my driver about 290 metres and my wedge 125 the problem is that all my short irons go a long way for a short iron e.g. 8 iron 155, 6 iron 180, but that’s where it stops if I’m 200 out I can’t get there with a well struck 3 iron, what’s the deal there. Thanks for listening and hope to get some feedback.
Phil
Hi Phil,
You must be stronger than a gorilla (or is that you, Lefty? nawwww). Since a meter is about 10% longer than a yard, that means (rounding it off) you are hitting your driver about 320 yards, your 8 iron 170 yards, your 6 iron 200 yards. That begs the question about how far can you hit your 5 and 4 irons, my guess would be (using a rule of thumb 10-15 yards per club) your 5 iron would go 210-215 and your 4 iron would go 220-225 yards. If that is the case I would bench the 3 iron and use a hybrid club or 7 wood instead. Many people besides you have trouble hitting longer irons, that’s why the new sets are coming out with hybrid clubs replacing the longer irons, so why fight it? Just go with technology.
Joe
Just a quick question, I’m a 2 handicapper and I hit my driver about 290 metres and my wedge 125 the problem is that all my short irons go a long way for a short iron e.g. 8 iron 155, 6 iron 180, but that’s where it stops if I’m 200 out I can’t get there with a well struck 3 iron, what’s the deal there. Thanks for listening and hope to get some feedback.
Phil
Hi Phil,
You must be stronger than a gorilla (or is that you, Lefty? nawwww). Since a meter is about 10% longer than a yard, that means (rounding it off) you are hitting your driver about 320 yards, your 8 iron 170 yards, your 6 iron 200 yards. That begs the question about how far can you hit your 5 and 4 irons, my guess would be (using a rule of thumb 10-15 yards per club) your 5 iron would go 210-215 and your 4 iron would go 220-225 yards. If that is the case I would bench the 3 iron and use a hybrid club or 7 wood instead. Many people besides you have trouble hitting longer irons, that’s why the new sets are coming out with hybrid clubs replacing the longer irons, so why fight it? Just go with technology.
Joe
Sunday, September 19, 2004
Friday, September 17, 2004
Joe,
I noticed there are a lot of new types of tees available like the “brush” tee to reduce the friction of the ball leaving the tee. Does this really make that much difference?
Harvey
Hi Harvey,
I read somewhere that makes about as much difference as your car being slowed down from a bug hitting your windshield. However, here is an experiment you might want to try. Take one of those rubber cylindrical tees that are used on driving range mats, and cut it to your desired height. Then cut a notch about a quarter inch square at the top. Point this notch toward your target and tee the ball. The idea here is that when the ball is struck, there might be some side friction from the tee to the ball which might reduce sidespin and thus reduce slices or hooks. It might be worth a try.
Joe
I noticed there are a lot of new types of tees available like the “brush” tee to reduce the friction of the ball leaving the tee. Does this really make that much difference?
Harvey
Hi Harvey,
I read somewhere that makes about as much difference as your car being slowed down from a bug hitting your windshield. However, here is an experiment you might want to try. Take one of those rubber cylindrical tees that are used on driving range mats, and cut it to your desired height. Then cut a notch about a quarter inch square at the top. Point this notch toward your target and tee the ball. The idea here is that when the ball is struck, there might be some side friction from the tee to the ball which might reduce sidespin and thus reduce slices or hooks. It might be worth a try.
Joe
