Joe,
This makes me really mad. Why is it that things always seem to work on the practice range but do not seem to work as well on the golf course?
Andrew
Hi Andrew,
It’s all about pressure. On the practice range, there is no pressure, since there is no penalty for a bad shot. Also since you are swinging every few seconds, your muscles can get into a good rhythm. On the course, it is several minutes between each shot, so there is less rhythm and that makes it easier to tense up. Tense muscles do not work the same as relaxed muscles.
Joe
Tuesday, July 13, 2004
Joe,
I have a practice area in my yard that is 130 yards long. It is a steady up hill of about 25 to 30 feet above my feet. How do I determine the true distance for this up hill lie. Is there a formula?
If you could answer this question I would be grateful.
Thanks, Rick Rhodes
Hello Rick,
I do not know of any formula, but if I were you I would already know which club I usually use for 130 yards, and then hit several balls with that club in your yard and measure how far short your average shot ends up. On the course, always take at least one more club whenever you notice the slightest uphill approach, and if it is rather steep, consider taking two more clubs, also factoring in the wind and the type of lie that you have.
Joe
I have a practice area in my yard that is 130 yards long. It is a steady up hill of about 25 to 30 feet above my feet. How do I determine the true distance for this up hill lie. Is there a formula?
If you could answer this question I would be grateful.
Thanks, Rick Rhodes
Hello Rick,
I do not know of any formula, but if I were you I would already know which club I usually use for 130 yards, and then hit several balls with that club in your yard and measure how far short your average shot ends up. On the course, always take at least one more club whenever you notice the slightest uphill approach, and if it is rather steep, consider taking two more clubs, also factoring in the wind and the type of lie that you have.
Joe
Monday, July 12, 2004
I HAVE A QUESTION FOR JOE.
THE QUESTION IS "HOW DO YOU SLOW DOWN YOUR SWING"? I HAVE BEEN SWINGING TO HARD FOR 45 YEARS WITH MY IRONS AND WOODS.
THANKS,
RON S.
Hi Ron,
After 45 years I think your motor muscle memory may be so ingrained, that it may be hard to “unlearn” your quick swing, but here is one thing you can try. The Body Golf videos have a tempo drill called the 2-club drill. If you do that drill every day, your tempo will eventually become ingrained and you will have then trained your body to swing with the same smooth even tempo that you seek. There is no way you can swing too fast with the 2 club drill, so just go with the flow and enjoy.
Joe
THE QUESTION IS "HOW DO YOU SLOW DOWN YOUR SWING"? I HAVE BEEN SWINGING TO HARD FOR 45 YEARS WITH MY IRONS AND WOODS.
THANKS,
RON S.
Hi Ron,
After 45 years I think your motor muscle memory may be so ingrained, that it may be hard to “unlearn” your quick swing, but here is one thing you can try. The Body Golf videos have a tempo drill called the 2-club drill. If you do that drill every day, your tempo will eventually become ingrained and you will have then trained your body to swing with the same smooth even tempo that you seek. There is no way you can swing too fast with the 2 club drill, so just go with the flow and enjoy.
Joe
Saturday, July 10, 2004
Joe,
I heard you can get more distance by hitting a draw rather than a fade. Why should it make any difference which way the ball curves?
Ron
Hi Ron,
A draw or hook is caused by the clubface being slightly “closed” at impact, so the loft is decreased, which is like hitting the ball with a lower numbered club. Similarly, a fade or slice is caused by the clubface being slightly “open” at impact, so the loft is increased, which is like hitting the ball with a higher numbered club.
Joe
I heard you can get more distance by hitting a draw rather than a fade. Why should it make any difference which way the ball curves?
Ron
Hi Ron,
A draw or hook is caused by the clubface being slightly “closed” at impact, so the loft is decreased, which is like hitting the ball with a lower numbered club. Similarly, a fade or slice is caused by the clubface being slightly “open” at impact, so the loft is increased, which is like hitting the ball with a higher numbered club.
Joe
Thursday, July 08, 2004
Joe,
For 40 years I have played with persimmon woods--Wilson Staffs with steel shafts, regular flex. Great clubs that refused to die. Finally I put them out to pasture and bought a new set of metal woods because everyone said I needed new technology on my side.
Well, these new woods are fun to play with, and they have graphite shafts with lots more flex action. The Hammer driver is 10 degrees, and I hit the ball much further and higher with them--great for clearing tall trees. BUT, I tend to push the ball right with a natural swing--no slice--just to the right. I can easily over compensate and hook it but that solves little. I never did this with the old woods with steel shafts. The ball usually went straight with just a slight controlled fade that I liked. Only the Hammer Driver tends to go right--the 3-and 5-wood are fine whenever I connect.
Seems like a very fundamental correction is needed. My feet are pointed correctly, in line with the fairway, but the ball goes right. What should I do to correct a push right that is a straight ball all the way out? Any suggestions would be appreciated
Ed
Hello Ed,
I had the very same problem when I first tried the new jumbo drivers, and I found that the larger heads were harder to get squared to the ball at impact. So I attended a few “demo days” to see if there was any difference between brands, and yes there are differences. I found that the problem goes away with “heel weighted” drivers. In fact, some of them are so heavily heel-weighted that you may have to fight a hook. Examples are the John Daly Loco Crazy Long, and the Cleveland Launcher. You can try adding lead tape to the heel of your current driver and that might help you.
Joe
For 40 years I have played with persimmon woods--Wilson Staffs with steel shafts, regular flex. Great clubs that refused to die. Finally I put them out to pasture and bought a new set of metal woods because everyone said I needed new technology on my side.
Well, these new woods are fun to play with, and they have graphite shafts with lots more flex action. The Hammer driver is 10 degrees, and I hit the ball much further and higher with them--great for clearing tall trees. BUT, I tend to push the ball right with a natural swing--no slice--just to the right. I can easily over compensate and hook it but that solves little. I never did this with the old woods with steel shafts. The ball usually went straight with just a slight controlled fade that I liked. Only the Hammer Driver tends to go right--the 3-and 5-wood are fine whenever I connect.
Seems like a very fundamental correction is needed. My feet are pointed correctly, in line with the fairway, but the ball goes right. What should I do to correct a push right that is a straight ball all the way out? Any suggestions would be appreciated
Ed
Hello Ed,
I had the very same problem when I first tried the new jumbo drivers, and I found that the larger heads were harder to get squared to the ball at impact. So I attended a few “demo days” to see if there was any difference between brands, and yes there are differences. I found that the problem goes away with “heel weighted” drivers. In fact, some of them are so heavily heel-weighted that you may have to fight a hook. Examples are the John Daly Loco Crazy Long, and the Cleveland Launcher. You can try adding lead tape to the heel of your current driver and that might help you.
Joe
Wednesday, July 07, 2004
Tuesday, July 06, 2004
Joe,
I would like to know why is it that the pros do not play like we do, just one player no help from a second man (caddy) and do their own thinking and find their own distance to hit or to put, I always taught that golf was one on one not two on two. What do you think about that I asked that question many times and so far so bad I never had an answer maybe I'll get one from you. Thank you.
Roger
Hi Roger,
You make a good point, it does not seem fair that the average golfers cannot use devices that measure distance, but pros can have caddies who can tell them the exact distance to the half-yard. Furthermore, golfers who cannot afford caddies do not have anyone to read greens for them, or forecaddies to find their shots in the rough, or have anyone to ask for advice (not supposed to ask opponents). This is why I feel recreational rules should be different than tournament rules. In defense of the pros, look at it like a race car driver who has a pit crew as a support function just as a caddie is a support function in formal competition. It would be pretty funny to see a race where the driver has to fill his/her own gas and change his/her own tires.
Joe
I would like to know why is it that the pros do not play like we do, just one player no help from a second man (caddy) and do their own thinking and find their own distance to hit or to put, I always taught that golf was one on one not two on two. What do you think about that I asked that question many times and so far so bad I never had an answer maybe I'll get one from you. Thank you.
Roger
Hi Roger,
You make a good point, it does not seem fair that the average golfers cannot use devices that measure distance, but pros can have caddies who can tell them the exact distance to the half-yard. Furthermore, golfers who cannot afford caddies do not have anyone to read greens for them, or forecaddies to find their shots in the rough, or have anyone to ask for advice (not supposed to ask opponents). This is why I feel recreational rules should be different than tournament rules. In defense of the pros, look at it like a race car driver who has a pit crew as a support function just as a caddie is a support function in formal competition. It would be pretty funny to see a race where the driver has to fill his/her own gas and change his/her own tires.
Joe
Sunday, July 04, 2004
Question for the Evil Twin:
Jody, in my opinion, golf is a game of integrity, so if you do not follow all of the traditional rules, you have no integrity. How do you justify not following all the rules?
Answer: You must be one of those people who turn yourself in to the police every time you drive 5 mph over the speed limit, and insist on getting a ticket, after all, you broke the rules. If you don’t do this, how do YOU justify it, where is YOUR integrity?
Jody, in my opinion, golf is a game of integrity, so if you do not follow all of the traditional rules, you have no integrity. How do you justify not following all the rules?
Answer: You must be one of those people who turn yourself in to the police every time you drive 5 mph over the speed limit, and insist on getting a ticket, after all, you broke the rules. If you don’t do this, how do YOU justify it, where is YOUR integrity?
Saturday, July 03, 2004
Joe,
What do you think about too much technology and illegal clubs?
Ted
Hi Ted,
Appendix II Section 4 of the official Rules state that the club must be plain in shape, yet some of the new putters look like Lunar Landing Modules, and they are deemed legal, so I think some of the rules are laughably inconsistent. I feel that if technology makes the game more enjoyable for you, then go for it. You just have to understand that if you ever want to play in formal competition, you must be careful to follow the rules. If you are just a recreational golfer, it really does not matter. Most putts are missed by misreading them, and no high tech putter will ever help that problem, even if you stroke the putt perfectly. Consider major league baseball allowing only wooden bats, but metal bats are allowed for all other levels. You can apply the same logic to golf. Unless you are playing in formal competition, use any kind of club you want and enjoy the game to the fullest.
Joe
What do you think about too much technology and illegal clubs?
Ted
Hi Ted,
Appendix II Section 4 of the official Rules state that the club must be plain in shape, yet some of the new putters look like Lunar Landing Modules, and they are deemed legal, so I think some of the rules are laughably inconsistent. I feel that if technology makes the game more enjoyable for you, then go for it. You just have to understand that if you ever want to play in formal competition, you must be careful to follow the rules. If you are just a recreational golfer, it really does not matter. Most putts are missed by misreading them, and no high tech putter will ever help that problem, even if you stroke the putt perfectly. Consider major league baseball allowing only wooden bats, but metal bats are allowed for all other levels. You can apply the same logic to golf. Unless you are playing in formal competition, use any kind of club you want and enjoy the game to the fullest.
Joe
Friday, July 02, 2004
hi joe,
I've recently changed my swing, making it simpler, with less thinking parts -- it's basically a straight head and spine, swing back and down. this has improved my consistency tremendously and i've managed to cut about 5 strokes off my score within the first 4 rounds of play. the only problem I have (other than putting, which is a constant) is with distances. The new swing, while accurate, is killing my judgement. as a guide, i've dropped about 15-25 yards a club from the 9 iron up. the pitching wedge is less severe, with only a 5-10 yard loss, so that's no issue. the other wedges I carry -- 51*, 56* and 60* -- have kept their usual distances. so i continue the upper body workout, and pushups, the core training and also work the quads for stability, and stretch like a cat out of bed. still no difference -- and to make matters worse, i now have jumping distances. it could be inaccurate distance markers, but i now occasionally get both my regular distance and the new swing loss of distance. The swing is not an upright swing ... neither is it flattish. it's about 45-50* at the top of my backswing. i used to hit my 7-iron 165-170yds. With the change and in spite of the training, i get anywhere from 143-150yds (when it low) to 170yds. i'm thinking that this new swing, while rhythmic and stable and accurate, is slow in swingspeed than its flattish predecessor (which causes the occasional pull/hook). which is the other thing i should bring up -- i still occasionally forget to focus and pull/hook the shot and the distances then are normal. So i guess the question i'm really asking is -- how do i increase swingspeed without compromising accuracy. like i've said, i've worked really hard each evening and i get no results. i've done religiously the simple dumbell drill that richard that advised some weeks back and while I feel stronger and more confident, i'm not seeing any results. and as you will surely concur, 143-150yds on a 7-iron is pathetic. i've lost even more distance with my driver ... from a regular 275-290 yds previously to only 230yds at best now. help please?!?
best regards,
cd
Hello CD,
Since I cannot see your swing, I can only suggest some possibilities. Your new swing has improved your scores despite your loss of distance, so your control must be vastly improved. Extra distance might cause you to lose that good control, but all of us golfers are never satisfied we want it ALL, right? Good for you, let’s see what we can do. First of all, you can call your current swing your “A” swing that you can always come back to when other “B” or “C” swing experiments might fail. I am assuming you are using the same clubs as before. If you are using different clubs, that might account for some or all of the distance loss. If that is not the case, your loss of distance could be “casting” or “hitting from the top”, which means your downswing uses up your wrist action too soon. Try delaying the wrist snap until the last possible instant before impact. Also make sure your lower body weight shift is aggressive, and extend your follow-thru fully.
Joe
I've recently changed my swing, making it simpler, with less thinking parts -- it's basically a straight head and spine, swing back and down. this has improved my consistency tremendously and i've managed to cut about 5 strokes off my score within the first 4 rounds of play. the only problem I have (other than putting, which is a constant) is with distances. The new swing, while accurate, is killing my judgement. as a guide, i've dropped about 15-25 yards a club from the 9 iron up. the pitching wedge is less severe, with only a 5-10 yard loss, so that's no issue. the other wedges I carry -- 51*, 56* and 60* -- have kept their usual distances. so i continue the upper body workout, and pushups, the core training and also work the quads for stability, and stretch like a cat out of bed. still no difference -- and to make matters worse, i now have jumping distances. it could be inaccurate distance markers, but i now occasionally get both my regular distance and the new swing loss of distance. The swing is not an upright swing ... neither is it flattish. it's about 45-50* at the top of my backswing. i used to hit my 7-iron 165-170yds. With the change and in spite of the training, i get anywhere from 143-150yds (when it low) to 170yds. i'm thinking that this new swing, while rhythmic and stable and accurate, is slow in swingspeed than its flattish predecessor (which causes the occasional pull/hook). which is the other thing i should bring up -- i still occasionally forget to focus and pull/hook the shot and the distances then are normal. So i guess the question i'm really asking is -- how do i increase swingspeed without compromising accuracy. like i've said, i've worked really hard each evening and i get no results. i've done religiously the simple dumbell drill that richard that advised some weeks back and while I feel stronger and more confident, i'm not seeing any results. and as you will surely concur, 143-150yds on a 7-iron is pathetic. i've lost even more distance with my driver ... from a regular 275-290 yds previously to only 230yds at best now. help please?!?
best regards,
cd
Hello CD,
Since I cannot see your swing, I can only suggest some possibilities. Your new swing has improved your scores despite your loss of distance, so your control must be vastly improved. Extra distance might cause you to lose that good control, but all of us golfers are never satisfied we want it ALL, right? Good for you, let’s see what we can do. First of all, you can call your current swing your “A” swing that you can always come back to when other “B” or “C” swing experiments might fail. I am assuming you are using the same clubs as before. If you are using different clubs, that might account for some or all of the distance loss. If that is not the case, your loss of distance could be “casting” or “hitting from the top”, which means your downswing uses up your wrist action too soon. Try delaying the wrist snap until the last possible instant before impact. Also make sure your lower body weight shift is aggressive, and extend your follow-thru fully.
Joe
Thursday, July 01, 2004
Hello,
In your golf tips one of the tips say “You are separating your hands at the top of the backswing.” How do you correct this, what do you look for at the top of the swing.??
Jimmy Walker
Hi Jimmy,
With a proper grip, I don’t see how the hands can separate at the top of the swing unless one of the hands is letting go of the club. Whatever grip style you are using, interlock, overlap, or ten-finger, try the other two to see if they are better suited for you. If the problem persists with all 3 grip types, there are a number of drills you can try. First, swing the club back and forth several times with one hand, and then the other. This should train your hand muscles to hang on to the club. Notice the amount of wrist break with each hand, because if you use too much wrist, that might cause one hand to slip a little. Next, try a normal backswing and stop at the top and check your hands for slipping. Get the feel for starting the downswing with good hand control. When you get the feel for that, the only purpose of the backswing is to arrive at that position. Good luck!
Joe
In your golf tips one of the tips say “You are separating your hands at the top of the backswing.” How do you correct this, what do you look for at the top of the swing.??
Jimmy Walker
Hi Jimmy,
With a proper grip, I don’t see how the hands can separate at the top of the swing unless one of the hands is letting go of the club. Whatever grip style you are using, interlock, overlap, or ten-finger, try the other two to see if they are better suited for you. If the problem persists with all 3 grip types, there are a number of drills you can try. First, swing the club back and forth several times with one hand, and then the other. This should train your hand muscles to hang on to the club. Notice the amount of wrist break with each hand, because if you use too much wrist, that might cause one hand to slip a little. Next, try a normal backswing and stop at the top and check your hands for slipping. Get the feel for starting the downswing with good hand control. When you get the feel for that, the only purpose of the backswing is to arrive at that position. Good luck!
Joe
Wednesday, June 30, 2004
Joe,
I have played golf once per week for many years, so I should be getting better and better, but I am not. I should not be hitting as many poor shots as I do. I don’t understand why. Any ideas?
Tim
Hi Tim,
If you play once per week, but you do not practice in between, then it is not logical to assume that things will get better while you continue to do things the same way as always. Nothing is going to get better unless you change the way you do things. If you cannot get to a range in between rounds, just hit some wiffle balls at your local park. At least you ball striking should improve. Have a contest with your current grip against a different grip. Many people think the interlock grip is best just because it is used by Tiger and Jack, however many people find that the overlap works better, and the 10 finger grip works best, despite the perception that it is a beginner’s grip, which is a false perception. Some people are blessed with a lot of natural athletic ability, while others must work at it to get better. Set some realistic expectations. There are not very many low handicappers who play or practice only once per week. On a daily basis, you can do the simple drills shown in the Body Golf videos, and you will be on your way to improvement.
Joe
I have played golf once per week for many years, so I should be getting better and better, but I am not. I should not be hitting as many poor shots as I do. I don’t understand why. Any ideas?
Tim
Hi Tim,
If you play once per week, but you do not practice in between, then it is not logical to assume that things will get better while you continue to do things the same way as always. Nothing is going to get better unless you change the way you do things. If you cannot get to a range in between rounds, just hit some wiffle balls at your local park. At least you ball striking should improve. Have a contest with your current grip against a different grip. Many people think the interlock grip is best just because it is used by Tiger and Jack, however many people find that the overlap works better, and the 10 finger grip works best, despite the perception that it is a beginner’s grip, which is a false perception. Some people are blessed with a lot of natural athletic ability, while others must work at it to get better. Set some realistic expectations. There are not very many low handicappers who play or practice only once per week. On a daily basis, you can do the simple drills shown in the Body Golf videos, and you will be on your way to improvement.
Joe
Tuesday, June 29, 2004
Monday, June 28, 2004
Joe,
I keep reading about how the speed of a green is measured with a Stimpmeter. How does this work, when did they start using this, and who invented it?
Jill
Hi Jill,
The Stimpmeter was conceived by Edward Stimpson back in the 1970’s, but was not accepted by the USGA until 1997. It’s really quite simple. The higher the number, the faster the green. 7 would be slow, 8 would be medium, and 9 would be fast. Tournament speeds are over 10. The device consists of a 36 inch aluminum rail with a notch (to hold a ball) 6 inches from one end. The rail is slowly raised until gravity releases the ball (at about 20 degrees elevation), sending it to roll the remaining 30 inches down the rail onto the green (at a fairly level place) and the roll distance is measured. This is repeated for the opposite direction, 3 balls for each direction. The middle ball for each direction is measured, and the average for both directions becomes the official reading, in feet, so if a green is “stimped” at 9.5, the ball must have rolled 9.5 feet.
Joe
I keep reading about how the speed of a green is measured with a Stimpmeter. How does this work, when did they start using this, and who invented it?
Jill
Hi Jill,
The Stimpmeter was conceived by Edward Stimpson back in the 1970’s, but was not accepted by the USGA until 1997. It’s really quite simple. The higher the number, the faster the green. 7 would be slow, 8 would be medium, and 9 would be fast. Tournament speeds are over 10. The device consists of a 36 inch aluminum rail with a notch (to hold a ball) 6 inches from one end. The rail is slowly raised until gravity releases the ball (at about 20 degrees elevation), sending it to roll the remaining 30 inches down the rail onto the green (at a fairly level place) and the roll distance is measured. This is repeated for the opposite direction, 3 balls for each direction. The middle ball for each direction is measured, and the average for both directions becomes the official reading, in feet, so if a green is “stimped” at 9.5, the ball must have rolled 9.5 feet.
Joe
Sunday, June 27, 2004
Joe,
I have one question for you. How I make good swing if my body only 165 cm high and 64 kg weight.
Thanx alot
Usman
Hello Usman,
Let’s see, if my math serves me right, you are about 5 feet 5 inches tall and you weigh about 140 pounds. There is no reason you cannot make a good swing no matter how tall or how short you happen to be. You can study the swings of shorter golfers like Gary Player, Ian Woosnam, or Corey Pavin, or you can study the mechanics of the LPGA players, who are living proof that your size is not a factor to be a good player. Another good choice, of course, would be to study the Body Golf videos.
Joe
I have one question for you. How I make good swing if my body only 165 cm high and 64 kg weight.
Thanx alot
Usman
Hello Usman,
Let’s see, if my math serves me right, you are about 5 feet 5 inches tall and you weigh about 140 pounds. There is no reason you cannot make a good swing no matter how tall or how short you happen to be. You can study the swings of shorter golfers like Gary Player, Ian Woosnam, or Corey Pavin, or you can study the mechanics of the LPGA players, who are living proof that your size is not a factor to be a good player. Another good choice, of course, would be to study the Body Golf videos.
Joe
Saturday, June 26, 2004
Joe,
I have been playing golf about 18 months now with a 20 handicap. I am having a problem with distance. When I hit my lofted clubs and wedges the ball flies straight but the ball is really high. I just do not get the carry I feel I should. For instance a 160 yard shot I am using a seven iron. My mid and long irons have good distance but also fly really high.. What in your opinion could be the cause? Also any ideas on exercises that could cure the problem? Thanks for any help you can give.........
Sean
Hi Sean,
This sounds like a nice “problem” to have. Lots of people would love to hit their shots high and straight. You should have no problem holding any green. However, since you want more distance, there are some things you could try. First of all, if you have older clubs, the lofts may be higher than modern clubs. Borrow another set at a range and see if you get the same or different results. If that is not the case, you may need a more aggressive weight shift to the front foot on your downswing. If you are looking for exercises and drills, the Body Golf videos have some excellent examples.
Joe
I have been playing golf about 18 months now with a 20 handicap. I am having a problem with distance. When I hit my lofted clubs and wedges the ball flies straight but the ball is really high. I just do not get the carry I feel I should. For instance a 160 yard shot I am using a seven iron. My mid and long irons have good distance but also fly really high.. What in your opinion could be the cause? Also any ideas on exercises that could cure the problem? Thanks for any help you can give.........
Sean
Hi Sean,
This sounds like a nice “problem” to have. Lots of people would love to hit their shots high and straight. You should have no problem holding any green. However, since you want more distance, there are some things you could try. First of all, if you have older clubs, the lofts may be higher than modern clubs. Borrow another set at a range and see if you get the same or different results. If that is not the case, you may need a more aggressive weight shift to the front foot on your downswing. If you are looking for exercises and drills, the Body Golf videos have some excellent examples.
Joe
Thursday, June 24, 2004
) Joe,
I would like to know how to handicap, alternate stroke play for a 2 person team. What percentage of a person's handicap is used. This format will be used in a member-member tournament to be played in July in South Carolina. I feel this will speed up play when the temperature is in the 90"s.
Thank you,
Joan Strasser
Hello Joan,
The official rules of golf do not say anything specific about this, so the local rules take precedence. One simple example might be to simply add up the handicaps of both players and use the sum for the team. Personally, I never cared much for alternate stroke play because you are paying two greens fees to play one ball, you only get to hit half the shots. For the money, I would much prefer playing every shot, but that’s just me. Also, if your partner is having a bad day, there is very little you can do to save the team unless you hole everything, and then your partner feels guilty, and then you feel bad, etc. I don’t mean to rain on your picnic, I just prefer the scramble format, that way nobody has to feel guilty for bad shots. If speeding up play is the issue, you can make other local rules, such as max-double-bogey (pick it up if you do not hole the bogey shot), and max 3-putt (pick it up if you do not hole the second putt). Have fun!
Joe
I would like to know how to handicap, alternate stroke play for a 2 person team. What percentage of a person's handicap is used. This format will be used in a member-member tournament to be played in July in South Carolina. I feel this will speed up play when the temperature is in the 90"s.
Thank you,
Joan Strasser
Hello Joan,
The official rules of golf do not say anything specific about this, so the local rules take precedence. One simple example might be to simply add up the handicaps of both players and use the sum for the team. Personally, I never cared much for alternate stroke play because you are paying two greens fees to play one ball, you only get to hit half the shots. For the money, I would much prefer playing every shot, but that’s just me. Also, if your partner is having a bad day, there is very little you can do to save the team unless you hole everything, and then your partner feels guilty, and then you feel bad, etc. I don’t mean to rain on your picnic, I just prefer the scramble format, that way nobody has to feel guilty for bad shots. If speeding up play is the issue, you can make other local rules, such as max-double-bogey (pick it up if you do not hole the bogey shot), and max 3-putt (pick it up if you do not hole the second putt). Have fun!
Joe
Wednesday, June 23, 2004
Joe,
The pro's are able to swing smoothly inside, outside to back inside. They are able to open there shoulders very soon. Most everyday golfers slice and never get that swing plane where it belongs. I know there are many gadgets and simple fixes out there for sale. How about a simple training tip for free that can get people swinging on the right track.
Jim West
Hi Jim,
I’m not sure there is such a thing as a “simple fix”, there is so much information available that you never know which piece is best for you. It depends on your individual physique and how you swing, and since I have never seen you swing, I can only suggest a few things. Slices (or hooks) occur when the clubface is not square to the ball at impact, so you may have to adjust your grip. Swing plane could be a factor if the path is not square to the target line. When analyzing a pro’s swing, pay less attention to the shoulders and more attention to the way they execute the downswing, especially the weight shift to the front foot. The Body Golf videos have some excellent drills for this, and for fixing slices.
Joe
The pro's are able to swing smoothly inside, outside to back inside. They are able to open there shoulders very soon. Most everyday golfers slice and never get that swing plane where it belongs. I know there are many gadgets and simple fixes out there for sale. How about a simple training tip for free that can get people swinging on the right track.
Jim West
Hi Jim,
I’m not sure there is such a thing as a “simple fix”, there is so much information available that you never know which piece is best for you. It depends on your individual physique and how you swing, and since I have never seen you swing, I can only suggest a few things. Slices (or hooks) occur when the clubface is not square to the ball at impact, so you may have to adjust your grip. Swing plane could be a factor if the path is not square to the target line. When analyzing a pro’s swing, pay less attention to the shoulders and more attention to the way they execute the downswing, especially the weight shift to the front foot. The Body Golf videos have some excellent drills for this, and for fixing slices.
Joe
Tuesday, June 22, 2004
Joe,
Thanks for the ongoing tips, I've taken some of the advice and been successful at improving little aspects of my game. I am a 22 handicap and only an average putter (32-35 putts/round) and would like to improve that aspect. I would like to incorporate the "plumbing" aspect to improve on ability to read the proper breaks. What is the proper way to learn and use this technique?
Peter
Hi Peter,
Plumb-bobbing does not work for everyone, Lee Trevino was asked about it and he said the only thing he saw when he tried it was “Stiff flex” on the shaft. Anyway, the way it is supposed to work is to hold the top of the grip lightly and look at the putter’s shaft against the hole, and see if the hole line is perpendicular to the shaft, or does it tilt one way or the other. If there is a tilt, then the putt will likely break toward the low side. This could give you a false reading if your putter head has more weight away from the shaft line, so be careful to rotate the putter head to a position where the shaft is hanging straight down. Do this inside a building against an inner wall’s floor line that you know is level, and then you will know the correct way to hold the putter on the green.
Joe
Thanks for the ongoing tips, I've taken some of the advice and been successful at improving little aspects of my game. I am a 22 handicap and only an average putter (32-35 putts/round) and would like to improve that aspect. I would like to incorporate the "plumbing" aspect to improve on ability to read the proper breaks. What is the proper way to learn and use this technique?
Peter
Hi Peter,
Plumb-bobbing does not work for everyone, Lee Trevino was asked about it and he said the only thing he saw when he tried it was “Stiff flex” on the shaft. Anyway, the way it is supposed to work is to hold the top of the grip lightly and look at the putter’s shaft against the hole, and see if the hole line is perpendicular to the shaft, or does it tilt one way or the other. If there is a tilt, then the putt will likely break toward the low side. This could give you a false reading if your putter head has more weight away from the shaft line, so be careful to rotate the putter head to a position where the shaft is hanging straight down. Do this inside a building against an inner wall’s floor line that you know is level, and then you will know the correct way to hold the putter on the green.
Joe
